There is one thing that most people do not realize about Spain…….the winters are miserably cold. The type of cold that gets into your bones and you never can seem to warm up. From November to April you are just plain COLD and miserable! Then, the beautiful Spanish sun peeps out from behind the clouds and the gorgeous wild flowers cover the rolling hills with rich reds, royal purples and glowing yellows which is quite a sight to behold. But as the winter is long, the spring is short. Just as you have unthawed and people have slowly begun to come out from winter hibernation and re-acquaint themselves with neighbours after a long winters absence……summer hits- BANG!
After as few as 4 or 6 weeks of spring, high temperatures send the mercury rising…. and rising! Spaniards make their move outside, filling plazas and outdoor patios with lively groups enjoying tapas, Spanish wine and the golden Spanish sun. Summer veggies and fruits hit the markets and locals go from eating the hearty “cocido” and “casera” meals to more salads, fish and the oh so famous yummy gazpacho. Local restaurants compete and try to “out-do” each other by making the “best” gazpacho from secret family recipes that have been handed down through generations. Gazpacho rivalries are almost as competitive as the paella competitions.
Daily temperatures in Spain’s interior (such as Seville and Cordoba) reach at least 100 F (32C) degrees for the entire summer, leaving residents the only option of hiding indoors at mid day, leaving all errands and outings for early morning and late afternoon. Historically, this is where the concept of “siesta” arose. Because the afternoon heat was (and continues to be) so intensely hot, workers would break during these hours and return to work in the later afternoon. This tradition lives on. Siesta time offers a much needed break when the heat of the day has worn you down.
Typically, once the children have been set free from school, families head in mass to the miles of Spanish coastline. Spain’s interior virtually becomes a ghost town. Cities such as Madrid are left deserted, traffic almost non-existent. Summer is a very important time for family, it is time when they can be together for an extended period of time. Usually, the grandparents arrange for a villa or apartment large enough for all the children and their families to stay together.
All the vacationers live at the beach, consume massive amounts of fish, beer and tinto de verano’s! There are usually two beach shifts, one from 10-12am where beach camp is set up with intricate placement of umbrellas, bbq’s, coolers and kids toys (rafts, sand castle tools and the ever so important soccer ball).
Lunch time arrives and the bbq’s are stoked up or if you are truly on “vacation” and don’t want to deal with cooking, you hit the chiringuitos (beach restaurants right on the sand which usually specialize in seafood and shell fish). These are leisurely meals usually beginning around 2 and linger on until 5. Since the intense heat has now passed, it is time for the second beach shift which usually lasts until around 8pm at which time everyone heads home and resurfaces around 10-11pm for a light dinner and drinks.
Most beach towns offer all kinds of great summer activities for all ages…..everything from free outdoor cinema on the beach, local concerts and celebrations (ranging from music to food). There is never a shortage of things to take advantage of on these warm nights. Families are out in droves, children run free playing with family and friends until the late hours of the night. There are so many ferias (festivals) throughout Spain in the months of August/September that it would be impossible to attend them all. The famous Malaga Feria takes place August and draws as many as 8 million party goers from all over the world for one hell of a weeklong party!
July or August is usually when working Spaniards take a two week to one month vacation. You will find many shops, restaurants and businesses closed during these months. These are probably the worst months to get anything done, whether it is buying a house, doing house repairs, doing legal paperwork for the government or banks or even simple tasks. Most likely, the person you are seeking assistance from will be on vacation or someone they need information from will be on vacation. The term “manana”, takes on a whole new meaning from the usual reference! To save yourself from major frustration, do business before or after these months have passed.
If you are not much of a beach goer and decide to remain inland, summer is still fantastic. There are tons of festivals of music, food and animals that are worth checking out. Local swimming pools with great restaurants are numerous, or simply sitting out in the local plaza and drinking a cool beer can’t be beat! Sometimes the simplest things in life can give us the most satisfaction.
Summer rentals of beach villas or fincas (houses in the country “campo”) can easily be found through rental agencies ranging from very expensive to very reasonable, depending on where you want to be. Make sure to reserve a place early on and don’t wait until the last moment.
What I love about summer in Spain is the warm sexy nights….. the stars are out and “la luna” lingers above silently, casting its light on the plazas full of crowded tables and the sound of muted laughter fills the air and very late at night you might be lucky enough to hear the sound of Flamenco music emanating from a local bodega. Spaniards live their summers right with the perfect combination of relaxation and celebration.
